This time I did manage to get a reasonably good picture of the PCB before I got everything boxed up - although it has already been tested for functionality. As with the standard version, I'm using my normal mix of 1% metal film resistors and film capacitors for the most part. I was short one metal film resistor, so I substituted in a 5% carbon film one. There are a couple of MLCC capacitors for the lower values. The electrolytic capacitors are all Nichicon.
As this was another test build, I stuck with the 1N34A and 1N914 diodes for the clipping stage. As with the standard build, I pulled a 2N3565 from my stock and used it. The germanium transistor is another of the P308s I had in my stash. I may try them with alternate diodes and transistors in the future now that I know the board is working properly.
The rest of the build was finished up using the exact same process for the standard version. I'm used the Steggo 3PDT daughter board that has the LED CLR and LED on it. I decided not to enable the brightness control. The audio jacks are Switchcraft and I'm using a Lumberg DC jack, but no battery. As normal, the jack connections are all insulated with heat shrink tubing and I'm using aviation grade wire from Tube Depot.
The enclosure itself is similar as well, though the waveform behind the Pelorosaurus is a yellow to red gradient instead of purple to red. As these are really just two variants of the same pedal, I didn't see a big need for completely unique enclosure design.
Again the sound is similar to my previous AionFX build, at least on my Katana. Now that I have some better tube amps, I really need to start testing a lot of these pedals on them to get a feel for how they interact with the different amplifiers. In the past I've generally preferred the standard version to the Albini, but that could change depending on the amp.
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